York Guides

The people of York are no strangers to funny headwear. In their time they've seen them all - helmet-wearing Romans and Vikings, boater-sporting Victorians and Edwardians, busby-bearing hussars... and, of course, the odd flat cap or two.

Next week the city faces a millinery invasion of a different kind: the Queen and the top-hatted/wacky head-dress brigade are descending for the Ascot races - and the locals are determined to match them plumed pink feather for plumed pink feather.

In the Hat Company shop this week, business was booming. "Ascot is all about theatre, dear," the manager, Elizabeth Coulter, was advising a slightly hesitant race-goer still fretting about her outfit.

"You've got to look the part - it's very competitive out there - but you must feel comfortable. The right hat can take 10 years off you; the wrong one can put 10 years on. Here try this..."

While the customer toyed with a multi-feathered fascinator (not quite her), others checked themselves in mirrors trying to imagine how the playful creations on their heads would match what they planned to wear.

"I want something a bit more frou frou," said one, obviously getting into the spirit of things. "Here, what do you think?"

Despite some reservations about traffic chaos, over-crowding and - perish the thought - over-inebriation, the people of York are looking forward to staging the premier social event of the country's racing calendar, and hoping that people coming to the city for the first time may be impressed enough to want to return.

They are also hoping that the five-day meet - being held here while Ascot's regular Berkshire home undergoes refurbishment - will convince southerners who rarely travel north that there is indeed life, and a good life at that, beyond St Albans.

And that with a train journey of less than two hours from London, it's not all that far away.

"It's extraordinary how the stereotypes persist," said Julie Hemmings, a reporter who has covered much of the pre-Ascot build-up for the Yorkshire Post. "Some southerners seem to think we're all still wandering around with flat caps and whippets.

There have even been calls from people wondering whether we have electricity."

Although some Ascot regulars are reported to be staying away (hosting alternative, more select gatherings in more familiar surrounds), the Royal Enclosure has been thrown open to members of the York racecourse itself.

Many of the tickets for other areas around the track have been snapped up by visitors from the Midlands, North-East, North-West and Scotland, people who would not normally consider making the much longer journey to Berkshire.

At the time of going to press, places in the Grandstand (£50) and the Yorkshire Course Enclosure (£18) were still available for all days except Thursday (Ladies' Day). For those wanting to spend a night or two in and around York, there were still rooms at a range of prices.

"People here are generally very excited about Ascot coming to York," said Kay Hyde of the city's tourism office. "They can't wait to get their glad rags on. You don't get enough opportunities to dress up these days."

In the Brasserie restaurant of The Grange hotel, Ady, a waiter, had secured some of the special £4 entrance tickets available to local residents and had already had himself measured for a hired grey morning suit.

Roy Allen, a retired policeman helping out at the Play Train stand at York's celebrated National Railway Museum, was also planning a visit with his wife and daughter on Ladies' Day.

"I don't normally do the races," he confessed. "Personally I find watching horses about as interesting as watching grass grow, but Ascot's a bit different. It's about getting all dressed up and seeing the women in all those fancy hats."

While the racecourse will be the main focus of attention next week, the city - voted favourite in Britain by readers in last year's Telegraph Travel Awards - has spruced itself up in anticipation of the racing crowds.

Statues such as that of the painter William Etty outside the main art gallery have been given a good scrub ("He'd needed a bath for 20 years," someone commented).

Several of the city's restaurants and hotels have jazzed up their menus to include Champagne brunches and gourmet dinners, and throughout next week a "Streets Alive" festival will be held in the heart of the walled city.

Who knows, some race-goers may even seek spiritual solace (or guidance) in York's magnificent cathedral, the Minster.

"We will be carrying on with services as normal throughout the week," said the Dean, the Very Rev Keith Jones, who will himself be taking time out to attend the races. "I am sure the Lord will listen to all prayers very carefully and will judge whether or not to grant them."

Wandering around this awesome building - the largest Gothic cathedral north of the Alps and a treasure trove of medieval stained glass - I can't say I received any divine inspiration as to where I might profitably invest my money next week.

But later, heading back to the train station, I got a tip from my taxi driver, John. "Have a flutter on Quito," he said. "He's been out three times this year and won twice. He should be racing and you won't go wrong there... but if he doesn't win, don't come ringing me asking for your money back."